Skip to main content

Transmission Options

I ended up going with a 2008 RX8 S2 gearbox as it was stronger than the S1 gearbox and newer and cheaper than an RX7S5 turbo box. I considered the gearbox form an RX7 FD but they have a pull style clutch which would mean I couldn't use my existing clutch. The choice of the RX8 gearbox came down to availability, cost and the fact I could use my existing clutch.

I think I'll need to change the Diff Ratio from 3.27 to 4.11 to make the gearbox more usable, below is a simulation with a 4.11 Diff and the RX8 Gear ratios shifting at 8000rpm with 15inch tyres.


Some of the options
Jatco 3 speed automatic box including torque converter $7,000

JK40C/CD transmission from 350/370Z

Adapter kits:


they all seem to need:
Does Not include (but requires) the following:
T56 Slave Cylinder (throwout bearing)
13B REW Automatic bell housing
FC FD Counter Weight
FD Automatic Flexplate (required if you do not select the Billet flywheel)
FD Automatic Starter
FD Automatic Counter-weight
Automatic Rear housing is required.

Which seem like a lot of work.

Tremec TKO Transmissions:



Tremec TKO to Rotary Adapter
CNC machined billet alloy adapter. Allows 13B turbo bell housings to be bolted to Tremec TKO transmisions. Two adapters available - one to suit FC (S4/5) bell housings, and one to Suit FD (S6-8) bell housings. In both caes the existing 13B turbo clutch/flywheel/starter is all retained - only the clutch spline must be changed to suit. Fitting instructions included.

Green Brothers racing offers a steel bell housing to adopt a TKO, $1,200

Steel Bell Housing - Tremec TKO to Rotary
This bellhousing is built to NZDRA and ANDRA specifications from cold rolled 6mm steel and laser cut 10mm flanges. Approx weight 10kg. Designed to be used with hydraulic release bearing. Bolts up to 12A, 13B and 20B. No scatter shield or blanket required. No adapter required, bellhousing bolts directly to the TKO gearbox (minor modification to TKO case is required to clear starter motor). Bell housing is designed to suit 320mm ring gears, and uses a S4/5 13B turbo starter. Photo is a sample only.



Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Finished design of front suspension Rx7 FC to 323 sub-frame

So I threw out the original design as I didn't like a few aspects of it, mainly being that it was overly complicated, not as flexible with the position of the steering rack to the Lower Control Arms(LCA) and not as strong. To address some of these design flaws i re-designed it around some 25X50X2.5 rectangular stock I had in the shed. I also changed the design of the brackets for the power steering rack to make them easier to position providing more flexibility during construction. I've made the height of both the the LCA's and the steering rack adjustable by 60mm in three 20mm increments. The I've sent the parts of to the laser cutters to be cut in 3mm mild steel with all the files available here . Once they are back I'll mig weld them together as I don't posses a TIG welder at this time. New Sub-Frame Design Old Sub-Frame Design I built the old design in cardboard after printing it on paper sticking it to the cardboard and cutting it out. This...
Post a Comment
Read more

The Journey continues

"It was the best of times, it was the worst of times" C.Dickens Long time no blog post, I guess most of the time I post on Instagram and neglect to come on here. In some ways it has been a good time for the shed and in other ways not so much. After moving house and getting a bigger shed I have more space, I've managed to purchase a Mill and a band saw as well as some other tooling. I've spend a fair bit of time mucking around with the front suspension and I think I have it how I want it now. Unfortunately with four children, the property, kids sport etc there is not a lot of time to spend in the shed, mostly later in the evening once everyone is in bed. I made a bit purchase and brought an RX7 FC, S5 13B motor in unknown condition with a MicroTech LT-9c for $3,000. I've started stripping it down and will clean it up and rebuild it, with the view of running it on E85. I've reworked the design of the steering rack location to have it correctly in f...
Post a Comment
Read more

Parts Shaker

I've build a parts shaker to knock the edges and burrs off the laser cut parts. I used an old thermo fan from the Mazda and cut 3 of the blades of to unbalance it. I screwed this to a piece of wood with 20ltr bucket on it that hangs from the roof. I'm running the thermo fan from an old ATX power supply that I had lying around. I experimented with both wet and dry sandblasting grit as a medium, the wet medium seemed to work quicker but also the part start to rust. I left the parts in the shaker for about 4-5hrs by which time the edges where smoothed off and some of the surface treatment had lifted. I then coated the parts in Phosphoric Acid (Rust Remover) and coated them in Pentrol pending welding together once dry. If funds allow I'd like to purchase a powered coating gun and powder coat the sub-frame as I have an old oven in the shed I can use to cook it off.
Post a Comment
Read more